Up next Work Stock Shootout Published on November 29, 2021 Author Mike McGlothlin Tags 12 valve, Cummins, Share article Facebook 0 Twitter 0 Mail 0 1,000HP 12-Valve Cummins It’s Not Impossible! Just because the electronically controlled Cummins mills burn cleaner and are easier to fine-tune doesn’t mean street able 12-valve applications have gone into extinction. In the age of high-pressure common-rail injection, four-digit horsepower continues to be made more and more frequently. On the dyno, on the street, and certainly at the drag strip, common-rail has overtaken the mechanical injection monsters that used to rule the roost. Rest assured, plenty of innovation has occurred within the P-pump 5.9L world over the past decade. Turbo, cylinder head, camshaft, and fuel injection technology has continued to advance, which is to say the amount of street able horsepower has increased also. Once thought of as a lofty goal, various breakthroughs in the diesel world have made it possible to build a 1,000hp 12-valve for street use. Year-round daily driver? No. Street able? Yes. There is a difference. Much of it boils down to smoke control and driving manners—both of which can be kept in check by piecing together the right combination of parts. Spec’ing out the best pump, injectors, turbo(s), hard-parts, and supporting hardware for your needs is the key to pulling off the four-digit feat, and then being able to enjoy that power reliably once it’s all buttoned up. The following pages are dedicated to helping you build the ultimate street-worthy common-rail killer. Just about any competent engine shop with a reputation for building reliable diesel power plants can build a 5.9L Cummins capable of handling north of 1,000 hp. Many of these builds begin with a good used core block that’s been stripped down, hot-tanked, pressure-tested, and magnafluxed before receiving any amount of machining. Along with decking the block and boring the cylinders, a line-hone is ideal in ensuring all seven main bearing bores are perfectly round (so the crankshaft can spin as freely as possible). Many performance 12-valve builds also entail machining the block to accept cam bearings on all seven journals. With any big horsepower goal, the trick is making things live at big boost. To keep the head secured to the block and all the immense combustion forces contained, both the block and head should be machined to accept fire-rings (an old-school groove cutter is shown here). Half the thickness of each steel fire-ring should protrude into the block, and the other half into the head. It’s good insurance to consider fire-ringing the block and head anytime 800-rwhp or more is on the table. Excessive rpm comes with added heat and pressure in the cooling system. Because of this, the factory freeze plugs in the 5.9L’s block can blow out. Bolt-in freeze plugs—such as the three billet side freeze plugs, single rear unit, and front freeze plug (shown here from Keating Machine) eliminate that possibility. A coolant bypass system is also a must-have for stabilizing coolant pressure across all cylinders, as well as dropping coolant temp in the rear holes (especially number 6). A girdle isn’t mandatory for a 1,000hp 12-valve build, but knowing that all the main caps are tied in with one another can provide tremendous peace of mind. Just know that if you do opt for this insurance item, it pays to know exactly which block you have. Early 5.9L blocks (’89-’97.5) left the factory utilizing 14mm diameter main bolts while later (“Encore”) blocks employed 12mm fasteners. Industrial Injection has offered its Gorilla Girdle line for ‘89 and later Cummins engines for years. The company’s all-inclusive kit shown here accommodates blocks that make use of 14mm main bolts (or that’ve been machined to accept them) but also comes with 14mm ARP XL main studs. Main studs are a must in any high-horsepower Cummins build, and ARP has been a leader in the diesel industry for two decades now. Factory forged-steel 12-valve rods have been campaigned in many high-horsepower builds over the years. However, at a bare minimum, they should be shot-peened, polished, and weight-matched to give them the best chance of holding up to four-digit power and (potentially) triple-digit boost. Best case scenario: go with a proven aftermarket connecting rod. Wagler Competition Product’s Street Fighter rods are a great budget option and are rated for 1,500 hp. They’re forged from 4340, shot-peened to prevent stress risers, come standard with ½-inch ARP rod bolts (vs. 7/16-inch), and retail for $1,850. The tipping point in 12-valve performance is roughly the 800 hp mark. At this point, not only should fire-rings be employed but so should stronger rod bolts. This is precisely why ARP’s 7/16-inch rod bolts are such a common upgrade (PN 247-6303). Direct aftermarket replacements for stock rods, each of ARP’s 7/16-inch fasteners is 23-percent stronger than the OEM bolt it replaces—and the ½-inch, L19 alloy rod bolts that come with the previously mentioned Wagler Street Fighter rods are considerably stronger than that. It goes without saying that a lot of factors play into piston selection, but one of the best out-of-the-box cast-aluminum options you’ll come across was actually offered in first-gen, non-intercooled 12-valve engines (’89-‘91). These pistons featured a deep top ring land, a shallow yet wide bowl, and higher compression than later pistons. The bonus with having a more shallow yet wider bowl than a later style piston is that you’re able to run more injection timing without spraying out of the bowl (which helps cut down on heat). Long story short, they’re a sound option for making good power. Impressive headway has been made in camshaft design over the years, and today there are several high-horsepower cam options available for 12-valve owners. Colt Cams’ Stage 3 unit (known as the “Big Stick”) has been a mainstay for those looking for big power up top without sacrificing any mid-range. The same can be said for Colt’s Stage 4 cam, which sports a larger exhaust profile. Across town, Hamilton Cams’ 188/220 is a big hit with 12-valve owners and is a cam that performs its best work from 1,700 to 4,500 rpm. Higher rpm, boost, and drive pressure means the potential for valve float and valve creep come into the fold. To combat it, valve springs with a higher seat pressure are required. Hamilton’s 165-pound valve springs—named for their 165-lb seat pressure at the proper installed height—come complete with retainers and locks, and work extremely well in engines that see as much as 4,500 rpm. To remove flex at elevated rpm and take advantage of your cam’s added lift, a much more rigid pushrod has to be run. A common upgrade for 12-valve engines is a 3/8-inch diameter pushrod with a thicker, 0.095-inch wall, and some builders even opt for exhaust pushrods that are stronger still, with a 7/16-inch od and 0.120-inch wall. Going beyond an off-the-shelf performance head, improvements can be made at your local machine shop (again, make sure it’s a reputable business that has a proven track record with the 12-valve). This includes beveling, chamfering, further opening up the valve throats by hand, and unshrouding the valves. The process of unshrouding the valves (intake and exhaust) opens up airflow in the head substantially. This is especially true at low cam lift. Running a billet cylinder head on a 12-valve Cummins is nowhere near necessary for 1,000 hp, but it does pay to open it open via porting, Along with milling off the intake shelf and running a higher flow manifold, a properly ported street head with stock size intake and exhaust valves will get you where you need to be—along with allowing for lower boost pressure to achieve your horsepower goals. As previously mentioned, cutting fire-rings into the head is a must at this power level. There is a reason ARP fasteners are endorsed by championship truck and tractor pullers as well as Top Fuel, NASCAR, and NHRA teams. The company’s products are manufactured from the highest quality 8740 chromoly steel in the world, and its head studs are an essential part of any high-horsepower diesel build. For ultimate head-to-block clamping force, ARP’s Custom Age 625+ head studs are as good as it gets (12-valve Cummins PN 247-4205). To ensure each head stud achieves the exact same clamp load, a generous amount of ARP’s Ultra-Torque fastener assembly lubricant should be applied to the threads, nuts, and washers. In addition, ARP’s head stud torque sequence and final torque specification should be followed to a T. Over-tightening a head stud is bad news for a couple of reasons: 1. it can compromise the integrity of the fastener, and 2. the fastener can’t (or at least shouldn’t) be reused. Adhering to the correct torque spec is paramount in a fire-ring application, where a hot re-torque process has to be performed. A hot re-torque scenario begins with allowing the engine to reach operating temp which, although time-consuming, is best done by letting the engine idle until properly warmed up. After the re-torque procedure has been performed, valve lash should be checked. This is because re-torquing the head studs crushes the head gasket further, effectively altering valve lash. For added insurance, it pays to re-check torque one last time before the engine ever sees full load or maximum rpm. P-pump selection for a high-powered 12-valve intended for street use is a loaded proposition to say the least. Some say a worked over and benched 12mm P7100 is best for street driving while others swear a 13mm unit can be set up to behave under the same circumstances. The real trick is to buy a quality pump from a reputable builder. With that said, the 13mm P7100’s offered by the likes of Industrial Injection and Northeast Diesel have proven capable of being street able, all while providing a highly beneficial, quicker injection rate. Quicker injection rates mean less timing is required, which leads to quicker turbo spool, and when properly configured (and matched to the right injector) usually leads to less smoke. Another big name in the P-pump world is Scheid Diesel, which builds everything from potent 12mm pumps to 16mm, P8600-based competition-killers. It’s advantageous in any extreme 12-valve build to have both an adjustable P7100 pump gear and access to it. A billet front cover such as the one pictured here from Keating Machine provides the entry point you need to advance (or retard) your pump timing. Most adjustable pump gears allow for up to 40 degrees of adjustment and the unit offered by Pure Diesel Power comes with the key needed to key the hub to the pump’s shaft. The giant can of worms that is 12-valve injector selection can overwhelm the vast majority of us. The right manufacturer, nozzle size, nozzle style (i.e. SAC vs. VCO), the amount of holes in the nozzle (5, 6 or 7), pop-off pressures, and injector line recommendation can all vary from shop to shop, and enthusiast to enthusiast. That said, injector choice boils down to which P7100 you’re running so the two systems can be perfectly matched. In the past, we’ve seen 5×20’s and 6×13’s make four-digit power in conjunction with a 13mm pump, and we’ve also seen 5×18’s combined with a 13mm P7100 (set to 550cc’s) run noticeably clean on the street. As for low-pressure fuel supply, the mechanical vs. electric debate is still alive today. However, for our money we would go with an electric, 260-gph Titanium lift pump system from FASS. We would also run dual systems (in case one ever decided to fail), keep supply pressure set where our P7100 builder told us to (likely somewhere between 45-55-psi), and enjoy the finer filtering and air separation FASS’s systems are known for. Picking an exhaust manifold is part of the turbo selection process, and at this kind of power level a unit with a T4 flange is the smallest you should run. Steed Speed’s manifolds are cut from solid 1018 mild steel and are available with a straight turbo flange, an upward-facing flange for compound turbo arrangements, or with an angled flange for running a big single charger. Other selling points include its Techline coating, which is rated for 1,700 degrees F continuous use and that can also handle brief periods of 2,000 degree EGT. Steed Speed manifolds can also be built to include external wastegate provisions. Another highly prevalent exhaust manifold name you’ll come across in the diesel industry is Stainless Diesel. If you thought injector and P-pump choices were overflowing in the aftermarket, wait until you””” get an idea as to just how many turbocharger combinations there are. For drivability purposes, we’ll leave the big single debate for another time and focus instead on compound arrangements. Opinions vary on running the popular S300 frame BorgWarner on the manifold for a high-pressure unit or going with two S400’s, but we have seen a properly wastegated S369 SX-E live and support more than 1,200-rwhp with a T6 flange S484 also in the mix (as well as a small shot of nitrous). We’ve also seen a 68mm Garrett matched with a 94mm atmosphere charger (also a Garrett) support similar numbers. We’ve also found that an S366/S483 combination has the potential to support four-digit horsepower. Air-to-water intercooling is brutally effective at dropping intake temps and increasing horsepower, but it’s not very practical on the street. What is practical is an aftermarket air-to-air intercooler that demolishes a factory first-gen or second-gen unit in terms of performance. For our money, it would either be spent on BD Diesel’s time-tested drop-in replacement intercooler for ’94-’02 Dodge trucks, or we would make a Banks unit intended for a Power Stroke work with our application. Either option would cool exceptionally well while also standing up to big boost. As horsepower rises and you’ve got an additional turbo to feed, it’s always a good idea to upgrade the 12-valve’s factory oil pump. Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel or invest in a dry sump system, many switch to the 8.3L Cummins oil pump. It can be modified to work on the 5.9L and moves 42-percent more oil volume. The one stipulation is that you have to install an oversize pickup tube when making the switch to the 8.3L pump, as the factory suction tube’s flow is questionable above 3,500 rpm. Under extreme load and horsepower, the 12-valve Cummins’ cam gear is known to walk off the camshaft. While the cam gear can be tack-welded to the camshaft, a permanent solution is to install a cam gear retainer like the one shown here (made by Hamilton Cams and available through Pure Diesel Power for just $40). Note that your cam will need to be pre-drilled to accept the retainer, which is the case on Hamilton cams. SOURCES ARP 800.826.3045 arp-bolts.comSubscribe Our Weekly Newsletter Colt Cams 604.856.3571 coltcams.com Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. (FASS) 615.834.0066 dieselperformanceparts.com Industrial Injection 800.955.0476 industrialinjection.com Keating Machine 865.599.6499 keatingmachine.com Northeast Diesel Service 573.588.4191 northeastdieselservice.com Pure Diesel Power 715.254.1833 puredieselpower.com Scheid Diesel Service 812.466.7202 scheiddiesel.com Wagler Competition Products 812.636.0391 waglercompetition.com Xtreme Diesel Performance 888.343.7354 xtremediesel.com FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS How do compound turbos improve engine efficiency and performance? Compound turbocharging significantly enhances engine efficiency and performance by employing a combination of two turbochargers that work in harmony. Here’s how this technology delivers: Increased Air Intake: Compound turbos allow a significantly greater volume of cool air to enter the cylinders. By utilizing dual staged compressors, each operates within its optimal efficiency range, ensuring that more air is pushed into the engine with less energy loss. Optimized Boost Pressure: They maintain a balanced boost and exhaust drive pressures, often achieving a near 1:1 ratio. This balance ensures that the maximum possible boost pressure is delivered without pushing the engine components beyond their limits. Enhanced Power Stroke: Rather than merely drawing in air, the intake stroke generates power, contributing to overall engine output. This is achieved by managing airflow in a way that maximizes energy harnessed during the intake process. Heat Management: By increasing the number of air molecules in the cylinder—some of which do not participate in combustion—excess heat is efficiently carried away. This principle mimics the cooling techniques seen in jet engines, leading to lower cylinder temperatures and improved reliability. Complete Combustion: With more air available in the cylinder, fuel is burned more completely. This reduces unburnt fuel emissions and translates into more energy produced per cycle, leading to better fuel economy and lower emissions. Conclusion In essence, the integration of compound turbo systems allows engines to achieve higher performance levels while maintaining efficiency and longevity. By optimizing airflow and heat management, they improve combustion, power delivery, and overall engine output, making them a noteworthy advancement in turbocharging technology. What components are included in a compound turbo kit? When purchasing a compound turbo kit, you can expect a comprehensive set of components to ensure a smooth installation and enhanced performance. Here’s what typically comes in the package: Dual Turbos: Includes both larger and smaller turbos to optimize power across all RPM ranges. Exhaust Manifold: Custom-designed to accommodate dual turbos, ensuring efficient airflow. Tubing and Lines: All necessary air, exhaust, and oil lines are included, carefully matched for compatibility and performance. Air Intake and Filter: A durable air intake system complete with a high-quality filter to protect against contaminants while optimizing air flow. Exhaust Connection: A downpipe or adapter tailored to seamlessly integrate with your vehicle’s existing exhaust system, ensuring a perfect fit. These components work together to boost your vehicle’s performance significantly. What are the features and benefits of a compound turbo kit? Features and Benefits of a Compound Turbo Kit When considering a compound turbo kit, what sets it apart is its array of features designed to enhance both performance and efficiency. Here’s a breakdown of what you can expect: Key Features Effortless Installation: These kits typically offer a factory-like fit with bolt-on installation, eliminating the need for cutting or fabrication. Boost Control: Equipped with a wastegated system, they allow for precise boost adjustments, optimizing engine performance. Superior Components: Includes a 3-piece exhaust manifold and a high-flow air filter, ensuring seamless air intake and exhaust flow. Premium Piping and Lines: The low-pressure charge pipe is typically lined with Kevlar/Nomex lined silicone, providing improved flow and fitment over traditional steel. High-pressure sections are supported by robust metal charge pipes, and oil lines are often flexible steel braids paired with stainless oil drain lines for durability. Advanced Turbochargers: The kit often combines an S400 Borg Warner turbocharger for atmospheric pressure with an S300 high-pressure wastegated turbo, offering options like high-pressure ball-bearing turbos for quick spool-up. Robust Construction: Critical parts such as the hot pipe are cast rather than constructed from welded thin steel, enhancing durability. Benefits Enhanced Performance: By possibly lowering exhaust gas temperatures (EGT) by 250-450 degrees compared to a single turbo system, these kits significantly increase power for the 12 Valve Cummins, typically by 22% to 30%. Optimal for Towing: Specially designed for demanding situations, compound kits are ideal for towing due to their reliable power delivery. Versatile Application: Considered one of the best turbo upgrades for the Dodge Cummins, they provide unmatched air and exhaust flow as verified through computer flow modeling. Unique Offering: Some kits are specifically tailored for first-generation Cummins engines, ensuring a direct fit and exclusive advantages for these models. In summary, a compound turbo kit is engineered to deliver superior performance and reliability, making it an excellent choice for those seeking to maximize their engine’s potential whether for towing or everyday driving. What horsepower ranges can be achieved with different stages of compound turbo kits? Horsepower Ranges with Different Stages of Compound Turbo Kits When it comes to maximizing engine performance, compound turbo kits offer a range of options depending on your horsepower goals. Here’s a breakdown of various stages and the horsepower they can achieve: Stage 1: Beginner Power Boost Power Range: 200-550 horsepower Configuration: Stock turbo combined with an S475 turbo Note: Not recommended for 1st Gen models Stage 2.5: Balanced Enhancement Power Range: 250-625 horsepower Configuration: S362/68 turbo with a 0.7 SXE Billet over an S475 Stage 3: Performance Optimization Power Range: 350-650 horsepower Configuration: S362/71 turbo with a 0.7 over an S475 Stage 4: Advanced Upgrade Power Range: 350-675 horsepower Configuration: S363/68 turbo with a 0.7 over an S475 Stage 4.5: Refined Precision Power Range: 350-675 horsepower Configuration: S363/68 Ball Bearing turbo over an S480 Stage 5: High-Performance Tuning Power Range: 400-700 horsepower Configuration: S363/73 turbo with a 0.7 over an S475 Stage 5.5: Enhanced Capability Power Range: 400-800 horsepower Configuration: S363/73 Ball Bearing turbo over an S480 Stage 6: Intense Power Surge Power Range: 400-700 horsepower Configuration: S364/71 turbo with a 0.8 over an S475 Stage 8: Extreme Engine Boost Power Range: 500-1050 horsepower Configuration: S366/73 turbo with a 0.8 over an S480 Stage 8.5: Maximum Performance Power Range: 500-1100 horsepower Configuration: S366/73 Ball Bearing turbo over an S483 These stages serve as a guide for selecting the right compound turbo kit to meet your desired power output, whether you’re looking for a modest increase or aiming for extreme horsepower. What are some customer reviews and experiences with compound turbo kits? Customer Reviews and Experiences with Compound Turbo Kits Enhanced Towing Performance One user shared their experience of having a compound turbo kit installed on their 5.9 Cummins for four years, highlighting its significant impact on towing capabilities. They noted quicker spool-up times, making it easier to get trailers moving from a stop. This upgrade also seemed to enhance their confidence when overtaking other vehicles, offering improved performance whether for work or recreational use. Quality and Satisfaction Another customer described their journey of choosing a stocker / S475 turbo kit for their 2006 Ram. Despite contemplating more affordable options, they decided to invest in this particular kit and were impressed right out of the box with its quality and packaging. After resolving a minor installation oversight, they reported the system functions flawlessly, delivering faster spool-up and reliable performance. They’re now eager to test the kit in the challenging Colorado mountains and are even considering upgrading further with complementary products. Improved Efficiency and Reliability For a user with a 6.7 Cummins, switching to a compound turbo setup was transformational. With the stock fuel system in place, they discovered that towing became much smoother even on steep grades. Concerns about exhaust gas temperatures (EGTs) were alleviated, marking this kit as a highly recommended upgrade for anyone looking to enhance towing performance. High-Performance Enhancements Following the installation of a compound turbo kit, another car enthusiast took things further by adding a Hamiltonstage 1 head, full manual valve body, and 125 industrial injectors. These enhancements helped their setup achieve 683 horsepower and nearly 1300 torque at an elevation of 7,200 feet. The vehicle consistently kept EGTs below 1100, regardless of the load being towed, showcasing both power and reliability. Overall, customers express strong satisfaction with compound turbo kits, particularly praising the significant improvements in towing, boost, and overall vehicle performance. Are there any modifications needed for 2nd Gen trucks with automatic transmissions when installing a compound turbo kit? Modifications for 2nd Gen Trucks with Automatic Transmissions If you’re planning to install a compound turbo kit on a 2nd Gen truck with an automatic transmission, there are a few modifications you should prepare for: Transmission Oil Heat Exchanger The transmission oil heat exchanger, located on the engine block, requires your attention. You’ll need to either remove it, bypass it, or relocate it. Relocation Kits To facilitate this modification, you can consider purchasing a relocation kit. These kits help you mount the heat exchanger onto the frame instead, which resolves compatibility issues with the turbo kit installation. By addressing these necessary changes, you can ensure a smooth installation process and optimal performance of your compound turbo kit. Be sure to source these kits from reputable third-party brands to maintain the quality and reliability of your upgrade. What additional products do customers often view alongside compound turbo kits? Frequently Viewed Alongside Compound Turbo Kits When customers explore compound turbo kits, they often look at several other complementary products to enhance their vehicle’s performance. Here’s a breakdown of items commonly viewed together: Must-Have Exhaust Components High-Performance Exhaust Manifolds Elevate your vehicle’s efficiency and performance with robust exhaust manifolds, designed to withstand extreme conditions. Look for options compatible with your specific engine model. Turbocharger Upgrades Advanced Turbochargers Customers are keen on exploring turbocharger upgrades that offer boosted horsepower and improved throttle response. Keep an eye out for models featuring variable geometry technology for added efficiency. Essential Turbo Accessories Variable Geometry Turbine Housings An upgrade to your turbine housing can provide enhanced precision and control, key for those seeking refined power delivery. Comprehensive Turbo Kits Complete Turbo Kits For those starting fresh, complete turbo kits often catch the eye. These kits ensure that all necessary components are harmonized for optimal performance gains from the outset. Industry-Leading Performance Brands In addition to individual components, enthusiasts frequently explore offerings from brands such as Garrett, BorgWarner, and Holset. These manufacturers are renowned for their high-quality turbo components and kits that maximize engine output. How do compound turbos increase the performance of a 1996 12 Valve Cummins engine? Unlocking Enhanced Performance: Compound Turbos and the 1996 12 Valve Cummins Engine The 1996 12 Valve Cummins engine gains a significant boost in performance through the implementation of compound turbochargers. Here’s a breakdown of how these turbos enhance engine capabilities: Efficient Air Compression Compound turbos use dual staged compressors, operating in their most efficient zones, to deliver cooler and denser air to the engine. This allows for more air to enter the cylinders, increasing the amount of oxygen available for combustion. Improved Air Intake With the dual turbos working together, there is a significant increase in boost pressure while maintaining a close to 1:1 ratio between boost and exhaust pressures. This efficient system enables the intake stroke to become more productive, essentially aiding in power generation. Enhanced Combustion The increase in air pressure and density ensures more complete combustion within the cylinders. As a result, you get better fuel burn, which translates to more power output and improved engine efficiency. Heat Management Extra air molecules absorbed into the cylinders play a crucial role similar to some jet engine designs, helping dissipate excess heat. This cooling effect preserves engine components and sustains performance over longer periods. In summary, by optimizing airflow, combustion, and thermal management, compound turbos significantly elevate the capabilities of a 1996 12 Valve Cummins engine, resulting in more power and better efficiency. What is the fitment range for 12 Valve Cummins compound turbos? Fitment Range for 12 Valve Cummins Compound Turbos If you’re delving into the world of 12 Valve Cummins engines and considering compound turbochargers, understanding their fitment range is key. Compound turbos designed for 12 Valve Cummins engines are compatible with models from the following years: 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 These turbos are crafted to enhance performance by offering increased power and efficiency. Suitable for various applications, they bring out the best in your engine across these specific model years. How do compound turbos improve engine efficiency and performance? The dual staged compressors work efficiently together to introduce cooler air into the cylinders, achieving closer to a 1:1 boost and exhaust drive pressure ratio, resulting in better combustion and heat management. What are the components included in a compound turbo kit for a 12 Valve Cummins engine? The kit includes a high-pressure wastegated turbo, S400 atmospheric turbocharger, Kevlar/Nomex lined silicone charge pipes, a high-flow air filter, a performance 3-piece exhaust manifold, and flexible steel braided oil lines, among other components. What related products are available for 12 Valve Cummins engines? When building a high-performance 12-valve Cummins engine, selecting the right components is crucial for achieving optimal results. Let’s explore some top-tier products and enhancements that will elevate your diesel build to new heights. Proven Performance Parts Aftermarket Connecting Rods: For those aiming for robust power, consider going with a proven aftermarket connecting rod. Wagler Competition Product’s Street Fighter rods are an excellent budget option, rated for up to 1,500 hp. These rods are forged from 4340, shot-peened to prevent stress risers, and come standard with ½-inch ARP rod bolts, offering superior strength compared to the standard 7/16-inch. Upgraded Rod Bolts: The tipping point in 12-valve performance is around the 800 hp mark. At this juncture, stronger rod bolts become essential. ARP’s 7/16-inch rod bolts, a popular upgrade, are 23-percent stronger than OEM bolts. The ½-inch, L19 alloy rod bolts with the Wagler rods provide even greater strength, ensuring durability under extreme conditions. Engine Components for Power and Efficiency High-Performance Pistons: Choosing the right pistons is vital. First-gen, non-intercooled 12-valve engines (’89-‘91) featured cast-aluminum pistons with a deep top ring land and a shallow yet wide bowl, allowing for increased injection timing without excessive heat. Camshaft Innovations: Advancements in camshaft design have yielded several high-horsepower options for 12-valve owners. Colt Cams’Stage 3 unit, known as the “Big Stick,” offers significant power gains without sacrificing mid-range performance. Similarly, Hamilton Cams’ 188/220 cam excels from 1,700 to 4,500 rpm, making it a favorite among enthusiasts. Supporting Components for Enhanced Performance Valve Springs and Pushrods: To prevent valve float and creep, higher seat pressure valve springs are essential. Hamilton’s 165-pound valve springs, named for their seat pressure, are ideal for high-rpm applications. Additionally, upgrading to a more rigid pushrod, such as a 3/8-inch diameter with a thicker wall, can further enhance engine stability. Cylinder Head Optimization: While a billet cylinder head isn’t necessary for 1,000 hp, porting and milling the intake shelf, along with using a high-flow manifold, can significantly improve performance. A properly ported street head with stock-size valves can achieve desired horsepower with lower boost pressure. Fasteners and Gaskets for Reliability ARP Fasteners for Maximum Strength: Renowned for their strength, ARP fasteners are a staple in high-horsepower builds. Manufactured from premium 8740 chromoly steel, ARP head studs offer unparalleled clamping force. For the ultimate in head-to-block security, consider ARP’s Custom Age 625+ head studs. To ensure uniform clamp load, it’s crucial to apply ARP’s Ultra-Torque fastener assembly lubricant to threads, nuts, and washers. Adhering strictly to ARP’s torque sequence and specifications is recommended for optimal results. Whether you’re enhancing your 12-valve Cummins for daily performance or eyeing extreme horsepower goals, these products and techniques provide a solid foundation for success. With the right combination of parts, your diesel engine can achieve remarkable power and reliability. What advantages does the modified lift pump provide? Discover the Benefits of the Modified Lift Pump Looking for a lift pump that takes your diesel performance to the next level? The Modified Lift Pump offers several advantages designed to enhance your vehicle’s efficiency and power. Enhanced Fuel Delivery With its innovative design, this lift pump ensures a more reliable fuel supply to your engine. This consistent fuel flow supports your vehicle in delivering optimal performance, particularly in high-demand situations. Increased Engine Longevity By maintaining proper fuel pressure, the modified lift pump reduces stress on your engine components. This minimization of wear and tear can extend the lifespan of your engine, saving costs over the long term. Improved Efficiency Say goodbye to power drops and hello to smoother driving. The enhanced fuel delivery system boosts the overall efficiency of your engine, resulting in better fuel economy and reducing operational costs. Easy Integration Designed with compatibility in mind, this lift pump integrates seamlessly with aftermarket performance components from top brands like Bosch and AirDog. This ensures that you can upgrade your vehicle without hassle. Durability and Reliability Crafted with high-quality materials, the modified lift pump is built to withstand demanding conditions. Its robust construction offers peace of mind, ensuring reliability on the road or track. Note: This product is not available for shipping to California. What items are included in the P-Pump Timing Kit? What’s Included in the P-Pump Timing Kit? The P-Pump Timing Kit is a comprehensive package designed for precision and efficiency. Here’s what you can expect inside: Powerful Diesel Magnetic Degree Wheel: You’ll receive one durable magnetic degree wheel, essential for accurate timing adjustments. Timing Gear Puller: This tool ensures easy and safe removal of timing gears. Optional Components Locking Washer: An optional add-on for those who need extra stability in their setup. Nylon Timing Pin: Another optional choice, perfect for more precise alignment during the timing process. Kit Components The kit includes serial numbers: 50001010001, 50001010002, and 61614122319 for reference or inventory purposes. Choose the add-ons based on your specific requirements to enhance your toolkit further. What benefits do the 3K/4K governor springs provide for P-pump trucks? Unlocking the Power and Performance of Your P-Pump Truck with Governor Springs Upgrading your P-pump truck with 3K/4K governor springs can dramatically enhance its performance. Here’s how these components transform your driving experience: Enhanced RPM Capability Higher RPM Limits: By installing these springs, your engine can safely achieve higher RPMs, which translates to increased horsepower and torque. This means more power at your disposal—perfect for heavy-duty tasks or spirited driving. Complete Kit for Easy Installation Comprehensive Components Included: Each kit comes with a full set of springs and bases. This all-in-one package ensures you have everything necessary for a seamless installation. Customizable Performance Tailored Power Adjustments: For those seeking flexibility, the kit offers customization. Remove the center spring for a 3K setup or keep it installed for the full 4K experience. This allows you to fine-tune the engine’s performance to match your driving style or work requirements. Upgrade your P-pump truck with these governor springs and experience a noticeable boost in performance, making your vehicle not just reliable but also a powerhouse on wheels. What features does the adjustable overflow valve offer for the P7100 injection pump? Features of the Adjustable Overflow Valve for P7100 Injection Pump Discover the enhanced capabilities of the adjustable overflow valve designed for the P7100 injection pump, priced affordably at $51.95. Here’s what this essential component offers: Precision Adjustability: Tailor the valve settings to suit your specific needs, ensuring optimal performance and fuel delivery. Enhanced Fuel System Performance: Improve the overall efficiency of your P7100 injection pump, leading to better engine responsiveness and power output. Durability and Longevity: Constructed from high-quality materials, this valve withstands harsh conditions, providing you with a reliable and long-lasting solution. Easy Installation: Designed with user-friendliness in mind, making the installation process straightforward even for DIY enthusiasts. Add this to your bundle for a comprehensive enhancement to your fuel system’s capabilities. What are the features of the delivery valves designed for the 94-98 Cummins? Features of Delivery Valves for 94-98 Cummins If you’re looking to enhance your 94-98 Cummins engine, delivery valves are a crucial component to consider. Here’s what sets them apart: Improved Performance High Flow Design: These valves are engineered to allow a greater volume of fuel, boosting your engine’s power and efficiency. Enhanced Durability: Crafted from robust materials to withstand high pressures, ensuring longevity and reliability. Tailored Fit Compatibility: Specifically designed to integrate seamlessly with 94-98 Cummins engines, offering perfect fitment without modifications required. Cost-Effective Options Variable Pricing: With competitive pricing, these valves provide an affordable way to upgrade your engine. Warranty Options Extended Coverage: Choose from multiple extended warranty options for peace of mind—covering up to three years of usage. These delivery valves are an ideal upgrade for those seeking more power and efficiency from their Cummins engine while also ensuring dependable and long-lasting performance. What are the recommended uses for the 60 lb valve springs? Discover the Versatile 12v 60 lb Valve Springs Price: Now only $142.50 The 12v 60 lb valve springs are specifically designed to enhance engine performance, especially recommended for those utilizing 4k governor springs in their setup. These heavy-duty springs are perfect for delivering improved valve control at higher RPMs, ensuring your engine operates smoothly and efficiently. Key Features: Built for durability and long-lasting performance under stress. Ideal for use with 4k governor springs to maximize engine capability. Provides enhanced valve train stability, reducing the risk of valve float during high RPM situations. Extended Warranty Options: Protect your investment with an optional extended warranty: 1-Year Extended Warranty 2-Year Extended Warranty 3-Year Extended Warranty Select the term that best suits your needs to ensure peace of mind. Note: Due to regulations, these valve springs are not available for shipment to California. Optimize your engine today by adding these to your parts bundle and experience the difference in power and performance. When is the rack plug not recommended for use? The rack plug is not suitable for certain manual transmission trucks, particularly those with 215 horsepower and equipped with a P7100 injection pump, often referred to as the “P-pump”. Specifically, it should be avoided in truck models from 1996 to 1998. Using the rack plug in these vehicles can lead to performance issues, so it’s essential to identify your truck’s specific configuration before considering its installation. What is the purpose of the P-Pump Injector Core Deposit? The P-Pump Injector Core Deposit serves a specific purpose in automotive parts purchasing. When you buy a P-Pump injector, a refundable core deposit is typically required. This deposit, often set at a certain amount (such as $12), ensures that once you’ve replaced your injector, you return the old core to the seller. Returning the core allows the company to refurbish and recycle it, promoting sustainability and reducing costs for future parts production. Only U.S. buyers typically have the option to include a pre-paid return label, simplifying the process of sending back the core. In short, the core deposit is a crucial element in maintaining an eco-friendly and cost-effective cycle for high-performance vehicle parts. What are the specifications of the pushrods designed for the 12v Cummins? A common upgrade for 12-valve engines is a 3/8-inch diameter pushrod with a thicker, 0.095-inch wall, and some builders even opt for exhaust pushrods that are stronger still, with a 7/16-inch od and 0.120-inch wall. For those seeking enhanced performance, selecting the right pushrod is crucial. These upgraded pushrods are often crafted from high-strength 4130/4135 Chromoly tubing, known for its remarkable tensile strength of 170,000 psi. This ensures durability and reliability without the risk of brittleness. Such performance upgrades are not just about size. The heat-treated tubes offer straightness memory, maintaining a hardness of 42 to 46 Rockwell, which makes them ideal for high-performance builds. These robust pushrods can handle up to 850HP, with tests showing they can endure even greater loads, exceeding 1200HP. When aiming for horsepower figures near the 1000 HP mark, builders might consider even more robust options. Selecting the right pushrod can be the difference between an engine that simply runs and one that performs at its peak, providing peace of mind under extreme conditions. What is the recommended application or usage? They are recommended for trucks that operate above 3500 RPMs. What vehicles is the product compatible with? These retainers and locks are compatible with 1989-1998 12-valve Cummins engines. What is the product specifically? The product is a set of Chromoly spring retainers and locks. What is the maximum horsepower possible with specific injector upgrades (e.g., 150 hp injectors or Mach 4 injectors) on a diesel engine? Chasing Horsepower With Injector Choices When it comes to maxing out horsepower with 150 hp, Mach 4, or similarly rated performance injectors, real-world results can vary—often more than most expect. On a well-setup 12-valve with a healthy P-pump and supporting airflow mods, you’ll frequently see 500 to 550 horsepower at the tires with quality 150 hp sticks, provided fueling and tuning are on point. Of course, the upper end depends on how aggressive your setup is (think turbo sizing and precise pump work). A Mach 4 or equivalent injector can sometimes push you a bit beyond those numbers—dyno sheets north of 575 hp aren’t unheard of when everything plays nicely together. But it’s important to remember these figures assume everything downstream (air and fuel) is cooperating: big single or compound turbos, a P7100 set to the right delivery rate, and an intercooler up to the task. If you’re finding disappointment at the rollers after upgrading injectors, don’t be too quick to blame those nozzles alone. Sometimes it’s worth revisiting the overall combo—rather than just chasing the next-big-thing injector. Matching the set to your pump’s delivery, your turbo(s), and intended use is the ticket. And as always, dyno numbers will differ by setup and even dyno calibration. For reference, well-matched 150 hp injectors paired to a benched, tuned P7100 and adequately sized turbo are a proven recipe for reliable, smoke-free four-digit torque and 525+ hp at the wheels, while keeping things streetable. Step up your injector size, and you might gain a bit more up top, but only if you’re ready to address airflow and fueling balance every step of the way. What kind of horsepower numbers should you expect when dyno testing a lightly modified 12 valve diesel engine? What to Expect on the Dyno With a Mildly Upgraded 12-Valve Curious about what kind of horsepower your slightly modified 12-valve will put down on the rollers? With common upgrades like a recalibrated injection pump, a slipped zero plate, upgraded clutch (think South Bend), and a set of hotter injectors—such as DDP Stage 2s—you’re already ahead of stock. Most 12-valve Cummins trucks with these upgrades will see anywhere from 320 to 380 horsepower at the wheels, depending on tuning, supporting mods, and overall engine health. Torque figures can easily soar into the high 700s, making daily driving a much more entertaining affair. Keep in mind, fuel delivery and air management (turbo selection and intercooler efficiency) play major roles, but with your combination, you’re well within the strong entry-performance range. Plan for a noticeable bump in power and, as always, expect your results to vary a bit based on dyno calibration, elevation, and other variables. Still, for most enthusiasts, these numbers mark a perfect balance between streetability and bragging rights. Which is better for fuel economy: a 12 valve or 24 valve diesel engine, and what rear end ratio is best? 12-Valve vs. 24-Valve: Making the Mileage Call When it comes to squeezing the most miles out of every gallon, both the 12-valve and 24-valve Cummins engines have plenty to offer, but there are a few key differences worth considering if fuel economy is top of mind. Generally, the 12-valve 5.9L is legendary for its mechanical simplicity, reliability, and ability to return impressive fuel economy numbers, especially in bone-stock or mildly tuned trims. Its mechanical injection system means fewer electronics and less to go wrong—if you’re into wrenching, this setup is about as straightforward as they come. Owners regularly report mid- to high-20s (mpg) with conservative driving and sensible gearing. The 24-valve, introduced later in the 1998.5 model year, brought with it more power and refinement, along with the electronically controlled VP44 or later common-rail injection systems. These improvements can boost drivability and power, but depending on setup and driving habits, you might see a slight reduction in mpg compared to a stock 12-valve. However, a well-maintained 24-valve can still be very frugal on fuel—and the added torque makes for relaxed highway cruising. Best Rear End for Highway Economy As for rear end ratios, if your main concern is maximizing highway mileage rather than towing heavy, a taller gear is the way to go. The 3.55:1 ratio strikes a great balance and is commonly praised for its ability to keep revs down at highway speeds, which translates directly into better fuel efficiency. Heavier towing or bigger tires might sway you toward a 4.10:1, but for most efficiency-focused drivers, stick with 3.55s if you can find them—or a similar ratio, depending on your axle selection. In either case, regular maintenance, keeping your foot light, and resisting the urge to crank up horsepower mods will tilt the odds in your favor for more miles per gallon. How difficult is it to swap a 12 valve engine into a truck that originally had a different engine, and what is involved in the process? Swapping in a 12-Valve: What You Need to Know Thinking about dropping a 12-valve Cummins into a truck that originally housed a different powerplant? You’re certainly not alone—the mechanical simplicity and legendary reliability of the 12-valve have made it a fan-favorite for swaps and backups alike. But before you grab your wrenches, here’s what the job really entails. First off, the swap is doable, but it’s not always a straightforward bolt-in. You’ll need to adapt or swap motor mounts, modify wiring (the 12-valve is simpler but will need integration with the truck’s electrical systems), and address transmission compatibility—adapters often required if you’re not transferring a matching gearbox. On top of that, expect to spend time sorting out throttle linkages, intercooler piping, and—if you want to keep all your gauges functional—wiring up sensors or running aftermarket gauges. Fuel delivery is another consideration. The 12-valve will need its own lift pump setup, and if you’re coming from a common-rail or V8 platform, this usually means plumbing in a new fuel system. Don’t forget about the radiator and cooling lines, either—many choose to use a larger aftermarket radiator like those from Mishimoto or Griffin to keep temps in check. Exhaust routing is rarely a perfect fit when swapping across generations or brands, and you might find yourself fabricating downpipes or reworking the turbo placement. While you’re at it, this is the perfect time to upgrade the turbo—or even consider compound arrangements if your aims are ambitious. Overall, if you’re handy with fabrication and wiring, and have access to the right parts (or the patience to order a few conversion brackets and electronics from shops like Keating Machine or BD Diesel), it’s definitely within the realm of the home mechanic. Just budget time for the little hurdles—nothing insurmountable, but a few weekends’ worth of work if you want it done right. In the end, the payoff is a near-bulletproof workhorse that will run until the cows come home—or at least until you start hunting for more horsepower. What are the factory horsepower and torque ratings for a second-generation 12 valve diesel engine? Factory Ratings for the 2nd Gen 12-Valve If you’re curious about where it all begins, the original factory numbers for the 1994–1998 12-valve 5.9L Cumminsare a great starting point. Dodge offered these engines with horsepower ratings generally ranging from 160 to 215 hp, depending on the model year and transmission pairing. Torque output typically fell in the 400 to 440 lb-ft range from the factory. These modest figures might sound tame compared to today’s high-output builds, but they highlight just how much potential is hiding under the surface. With a solid foundation like that, it’s no wonder enthusiasts have been able to quadruple the stock power and still drive them down Main Street. What are the stock horsepower and torque numbers for a 12 valve engine from 1994-1998? Stock Output: What Numbers Did Dodge Deliver? Curious about where these mechanical legends started? The 1994-1998 12-valve Cummins engines rolled out with horsepower ratings typically between 160 and 215 hp, depending on model year and transmission choice. Torque wasn’t shabby either, coming in between 400 and 440 lb-ft straight from the factory. Those numbers may seem modest by today’s four-digit standards, but they’re the foundation that sparked an entire aftermarket industry (and many late-night dyno sessions). With robust internals and a reputation for reliability, it’s these dependable stock figures that enthusiasts have been building on for decades. How do you adjust the valves on a 12 valve diesel engine, and can you do it yourself? Valve Lash Adjustment on a 12-Valve Diesel Routine valve lash adjustment is a crucial part of keeping your 12-valve diesel running smooth and quiet—especially if you start hearing a pronounced tapping or pecking noise. Fortunately, with some basic tools and a careful approach, you can tackle this task yourself (no need to stay in the dark at the dealership). Here’s a high-level rundown of the process: Tools Required Feeler gauges (precisely matched to your engine’s spec) A set of wrenches (typically 10mm or 13mm, depending on your rockers) Socket set Screwdriver Preparation Begin with a cool engine to avoid burns and to ensure accurate measurement. Remove the valve cover to access the rocker assembly. Finding Top Dead Center (TDC) Rotate the engine by hand (using a socket on the crank) until cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. You’ll know you’re there when both the intake and exhaust valves for that cylinder are fully closed. Measuring and Setting Lash Slide the correct feeler gauge between the rocker arm and valve stem. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjustment screw to achieve the proper clearance per spec—typically .010” for intake and .020” for exhaust on most 12-valve engines, but always double-check your specs. Hold the screw steady as you re-tighten the lock nut, then re-check clearance. Repeat the process for the remaining valves, following the correct firing order and rotating the engine as needed. Button Everything Up Replace the valve cover with a new gasket if needed. Fire up the engine and listen—if the pecking is gone and the idle is smooth, you’re good to go. If you follow these steps and use quality feeler gauges, there’s no reason you can’t handle this in your own garage. This hands-on care pays off with quieter operation, consistent performance, and the confidence that comes from knowing your valvetrain is dialed in. Will a 48RE automatic transmission mate to a 12 valve engine, and are adapters available if not? Pairing a 48RE Transmission with a 12 Valve Engine Considering a 48RE automatic transmission for your 12 valve build? This is a common question among enthusiasts aiming to combine modern transmission technology with the proven reliability of the 12 valve Cummins. The 48RE transmission, typically found behind later model Cummins engines, does not directly bolt up to a 12 valve due to differences in the adapter plate and related hardware. However, there’s good news—several reputable third-party companies offer adapter kits specifically designed for this swap. These kits generally include the necessary adapter plate, flexplate, and hardware to ensure a proper fit between your 48RE and 12 valve block. If you’re contemplating pulling your billet 48RE out of your daily driver for a new 12 valve project, just be sure to include one of these adapter kits in your build plan. This combination offers the robust capability of a 12 valve engine alongside the smooth operation of the 48RE, making it a solid choice for towing, daily driving, or high-performance builds. Which transmission (5-speed manual or 3-speed automatic with overdrive) provides better highway fuel economy for a 12 valve engine with a 3.55 axle? Transmission Comparison: 5-Speed Manual vs. 3-Speed Automatic (with Overdrive) If you’re weighing options between the 5-speed manual and the 3-speed automatic with overdrive for your 12 valve engine paired with a 3.55 axle, fuel economy on the highway is a key factor to consider. In most cases, the 5-speed manual transmission edges out the automatic when it comes to highway fuel mileage. Why the 5-Speed Manual Is More Efficient: Gear Ratios: The manual typically offers taller overdrive gears, keeping your RPMs lower at cruising speeds. This translates to less fuel consumed over long distances. Direct Control: Driving a manual allows for more precise control over shift points, offering opportunities to maximize efficiency depending on road conditions and load. Automatic Transmission Considerations: The 3-speed automatic with overdrive isn’t as efficient, mainly due to slippage in the torque converter and generally higher operating RPMs. However, some modern third-party torque converter upgrades or valve body kits can help reduce losses and close the gap a bit, especially if your driving is a mix of city and highway or involves regular towing. In Summary:For mostly empty or lightly loaded highway driving, the 5-speed manual will almost always deliver better mileage with a 3.55 axle. If you favor ease of use and don’t mind a marginal drop in efficiency, the automatic with overdrive—especially with a reputable aftermarket converter—remains a solid, practical option. What are the advantages of buying a used 12 valve diesel truck? Why Consider a Used 12-Valve Diesel? Opting for a used 12-valve diesel truck makes a lot of sense for enthusiasts looking to chase big power on a budget. For starters, these engines tend to be significantly less expensive up front compared to their newer, electronically controlled counterparts. It means a lower starting point for those looking to build serious performance without draining their savings. But the real magic of a 12-valve lies in its legendary simplicity—mechanical injection, fewer electronics, and robust construction make these engines ideal for tinkerers and seasoned builders alike. The aftermarket support is tremendous, with companies like Bosch, Hamilton, ARP, and Mahle offering countless options for upgrades. This wealth of bolt-on and internal parts makes it easier (and often cheaper) to coax serious horsepower out of a used 12-valve, especially compared to newer diesel platforms. Beyond cost and upgrade potential, there’s a certain satisfaction in the hands-on, analog nature of the 12-valve. For those who love the idea of building something potent with their own two hands, a used 12-valve diesel offers both the affordability and the mechanical canvas to create a truly impressive powerplant. Will a cylinder head from a 1994 12 valve engine work with injectors and a VE pump on an older 6BT engine? Mixing and Matching Cylinder Heads and Injectors Swapping a cylinder head from a 1994 12-valve onto your ’89 6BT isn’t a problem from a fitment perspective—the head itself will bolt right up. Where things get interesting is with the injectors and fuel system. The ’94 head is set up for the later-style injectors, which are mechanically compatible, but since your engine is running the VE rotary pump, there are a couple of details to keep in mind: The injectors from the 1994 model will physically fit, but their internal pop pressures are typically higher, as they were designed to work with the piston pump (P-pump) found on the later engines. When pairing the 1994 injectors with the older VE pump, you may notice a difference in how the engine runs—mainly, you might see a slightly delayed injection event due to the increased pressure requirement. The injector lines are also a match, so there’s no issue there, but for optimum performance and tuning flexibility, you might want to stick with VE-specific injectors or consult a shop like Industrial Injection or DAP (Diesel Auto Power) to have the 1994 injectors set to VE-friendly pop pressures. So, while the swap is physically straightforward, squeezing the most out of your combination is all about balancing the injectors with your fueling setup. This ensures you get the crisp response and reliability the 6BT is known for, without introducing complications that aren’t necessary on a street build. Has anyone successfully swapped a 24 valve engine with a 12 valve, and what are the results? Swapping a 24-Valve for a 12-Valve: Real-World Insights Swapping out a 24-valve Cummins for a 12-valve is anything but rare in the diesel world, and it’s been met with a surprising amount of success. The motivation often boils down to simplicity, reliability, and—of course—that old-school mechanical fuel economy the 12-valve is famous for. Many owners who’ve made the switch report a tangible bump in MPG, especially when replacing a 24V with a P-pumped 12V. From a performance perspective, the conversion is pretty straightforward if you’ve got the right parts and a bit of patience. Expect to track down custom engine mounts, make minor tweaks to wiring harnesses, and handle fuel system adaptations (think swap-specific lines and fittings). An aftermarket parts supplier like Industrial Injection or Scheid can help source everything from adjustable tappet covers to conversion harnesses and adapters. As for results? You’ll generally see simplified under-hood electronics, easier tuning, and fewer headaches hunting down electrical gremlins—which is part of why so many competitors and heavy-haulers go this route. Plus, with the dizzying aftermarket support for the 12V (cams, turbos, injectors, you name it), building a setup that runs cleaner and stronger than stock is well within reach. All told, if you’re after a rugged, fuel-saving workhorse, making the leap to a 12-valve is a tried-and-true upgrade that still earns high praise. Can a 24 valve cylinder head be installed on a 12 valve engine block, and what are the considerations for such a swap? Swapping a 24-Valve Head onto a 12-Valve Block If you’re intrigued by the idea of blending the mechanical simplicity of the P-pump 12-valve block with a 24-valve head, you’re not alone. This “best of both worlds” concept often comes up among those looking to combine robust fueling with improved airflow, particularly for pulling trucks and high-output street builds. But while it sounds straightforward in theory, this swap brings its own set of hurdles and necessary modifications. First, the good news: physically mounting a 24-valve head onto a 12-valve block can be done. The blocks share similar architecture, so the head bolts will line up, and you can install a 24-valve head after addressing a few details. However, things get trickier after the head is in place. Considerations to Keep in Mind: Pushrod and Valvetrain Differences:The 24-valve head uses different rocker arms and longer pushrods compared to the 12-valve. You’ll need to source the correct components and ensure proper geometry for reliable valve actuation. Pumping Iron:Running a mechanical P-pump on a 24-valve head requires a custom injection system. While mechanical injection can be adapted, you’ll need either a custom injector line set or adapters to mate the P-pump to the 24-valve injectors. Some opt for aftermarket conversion kits to simplify this process. Coolant and Oil Passages:Double-check alignment of coolant and oil passages between the block and head. Some passages may require minor modification or blocking to avoid leaks or hotspots. Head Gasket and Sealing:To maintain reliability—especially at high boost—it’s smart to use a head gasket designed for the 24-valve and consider fire-ringing both the head and block. Electronics:Retrofitting a mechanical pump to a 24-valve head bypasses some electronics, but if you want to retain any electronic controls or sensors, you’ll need to plan for integration or creative workarounds. The swap is certainly doable and has been pulled off for competition trucks looking for extra airflow or unique builds that want mechanical fueling with a modern touch. Just know upfront that a handful of fabrication, custom components, and careful parts selection comes with the territory. As with any high-performance diesel project, taking time in this stage to plan the details will pay off in reliability and horsepower down the line. Why does a 12 valve diesel engine emit blue smoke haze on startup, and is this normal? Blue Smoke on Startup: What’s Really Going On? If you’ve ever fired up your 12-valve and noticed a lingering blue haze curling out of the exhaust, you’re not alone—it’s a classic quirk for these engines, especially as mileage ticks up. So, what’s behind all that blue smoke, and should you be worried? First, let’s clear the air: blue smoke usually signals that oil is getting into the combustion chamber and burning along with diesel. On startup, this can happen for a handful of reasons: Worn valve stem seals:Over time, the seals can harden and allow oil to seep past overnight, especially if your truck has been sitting for a while. Tired piston rings:High mileage or aggressive driving can wear rings, letting oil slip by when the engine’s cold. Turbo seals on their last legs:If your setup utilizes a journal bearing turbo that’s seen better days, oil can sneak past the seals and add to the morning show. A quick puff of blue smoke that fades as the engine warms up could be considered a “badge of honor” on a well-seasoned 12-valve, and isn’t typically cause for panic—especially in colder months or after extended downtime. However, if that haze lingers long after startup, or you’re noticing oil consumption that rivals your fuel bill, it’s worth inspecting those key trouble spots. Keeping up with regular oil changes using quality diesel oils (think Amsoilor Schaeffer’s) and monitoring turbo health can make a real difference. Bottom line: a brief blue haze at startup is fairly normal for an older 12-valve, particularly when seals and rings have a few hundred thousand miles behind them. Persistent smoke or excessive oil loss, though, is your cue to dig a little deeper before it becomes a bigger issue. What could cause a misfire on the number 1 cylinder of a 12 valve engine, and how can it be diagnosed or fixed? Chasing Down a Cylinder 1 Misfire on Your 12-Valve If your 12-valve Cummins is suffering from a persistent misfire on cylinder 1, don’t panic—you’re not alone, and there’s a tried-and-true checklist you can work through. Let’s break it down. Key Suspects in a Cylinder-Specific Misfire Start simple and systematic: Injector Issues: A clogged or damaged injector is usually the first place to look. Try swapping the injector from cylinder 1 with another cylinder and see if the misfire follows. If it does, you’ve found your culprit. Injection Pump Problems: The P7100 is generally bulletproof, but a weak or stuck plunger for cylinder 1 can cause fuel delivery headaches. Have your pump builder check out the internals if injector swaps don’t solve it. Valve Adjustments and Compression: A tight or burnt exhaust valve, or even a dropped seat, can rob compression. Run a compression test—healthy 12-valves should see even numbers across the board. Anything noticeably lower on cylinder 1 signals you might be pulling the head for a closer look. Pushrods and Rocker Arms: Bent pushrods and worn rocker arms do happen, especially at higher power and RPM. Pop the valve cover and give everything a visual once-over. Diagnosing and Resolving the Misfire Here’s a quick way to dial in the diagnosis: Injector Swap– Move cylinder 1’s injector to another cylinder and monitor for a change. Compression Test– Rule out mechanical woes inside the cylinder. Check for Fuel Delivery– Monitor the injection line for proper pressure and leaks. Inspect Valvetrain Components– Remove the valve cover and inspect for obvious mechanical damage or excessive play. Look for Air in the Fuel– Air intrusion anywhere in the system can cause a random misfire; FASS lift pumps and their fine filtration are stellar for taking air out of the equation. Address each area carefully, and you’ll typically uncover the cause without resorting to guesswork or unnecessary parts swapping. What kind of power and fuel economy can be expected from a 12 valve diesel engine? “Just because the electronically controlled Cummins mills burn cleaner and are easier to fine-tune doesn’t mean street able 12-valve applications have gone into extinction. In the age of high-pressure common-rail injection, four-digit horsepower continues to be made more and more frequently. On the dyno, on the street, and certainly at the drag strip, common-rail has overtaken the mechanical injection monsters that used to rule the roost. Rest assured, plenty of innovation has occurred within the P-pump 5.9L world over the past decade. Turbo, cylinder head, camshaft, and fuel injection technology has continued to advance, which is to say the amount of street able horsepower has increased also. But let’s be honest—there’s something about the raw, mechanical nature of the 12-valve that keeps us coming back. Many of us have stories that start the same way: watching an old-school 12-valve outpull newer trucks, or seeing a friend’s build make mind-boggling power without a single wire out of place. Maybe, like me, you’ve been impressed by the relentless power and surprising fuel economy of a well-tuned 12-valve—enough to convince you that you had to have one of your own. The 1,000hp Mark: Now Within Reach Once thought of as a lofty goal, various breakthroughs in the diesel world have made it possible to build a 1,000hp 12-valve for street use. Year-round daily driver? No. Street able? Yes. There is a difference. Much of it boils down to smoke control and driving manners—both of which can be kept in check by piecing together the right combination of parts. Spec’ing out the best pump, injectors, turbo(s), hard-parts, and supporting hardware for your needs is the key to pulling off the four-digit feat, and then being able to enjoy that power reliably once it’s all buttoned up. Whether you’re inspired by a family legacy, a friend’s build, or your own need for a no-nonsense powerhouse, the 12-valve Cummins remains a legend that’s more attainable—and streetable—than ever.” What are the general differences in performance and fuel economy between 12 valve and 24 valve diesel engines? Just because the electronically controlled Cummins mills burn cleaner and are easier to fine-tune doesn’t mean street able 12-valve applications have gone into extinction. In the age of high-pressure common-rail injection, four-digit horsepower continues to be made more and more frequently. On the dyno, on the street, and certainly at the drag strip, common-rail has overtaken the mechanical injection monsters that used to rule the roost. Rest assured, plenty of innovation has occurred within the P-pump 5.9L world over the past decade. Turbo, cylinder head, camshaft, and fuel injection technology has continued to advance, which is to say the amount of street able horsepower has increased also. Why Swap to a 12-Valve? The question comes up time and again: has anyone found success swapping a 24-valve with a 12-valve engine? There’s a reason for the curiosity. While there’s nothing inherently wrong with the 24-valve—many owners are perfectly content with its performance and refinement—there’s a certain allure to the old 12-valvers. Namely, fuel economy. The older mechanical 5.9L engines were often more efficient in real-world driving, especially compared to the newer 6.7L setups. For those chasing every last mile per gallon, or simply wanting the durability and simplicity of the 12-valve design, the swap is tempting. It’s not just about nostalgia or fuel savings, either. The 12-valve’s mechanical nature means ultimate control, fewer sensors to fail, and a tuning experience that’s as hands-on as you want it to be. So while the diesel world continues to march toward electronic wizardry and emissions compliance, the 12-valve remains a favorite for those seeking raw, reliable power and efficiency. Once thought of as a lofty goal, various breakthroughs in the diesel world have made it possible to build a 1,000hp 12-valve for street use. Year-round daily driver? No. Street able? Yes. There is a difference. Much of it boils down to smoke control and driving manners—both of which can be kept in check by piecing together the right combination of parts. Spec’ing out the best pump, injectors, turbo(s), hard-parts, and supporting hardware for your needs is the key to pulling off the four-digit feat, and then being able to enjoy that power reliably once it’s all buttoned up. The following page… Why do some truck owners prefer 12 valve engines over 24 valve engines, particularly regarding electronics and reliability? “Just because the electronically controlled Cummins mills burn cleaner and are easier to fine-tune doesn’t mean street able 12-valve applications have gone into extinction. In the age of high-pressure common-rail injection, four-digit horsepower continues to be made more and more frequently. On the dyno, on the street, and certainly at the drag strip, common-rail has overtaken the mechanical injection monsters that used to rule the roost. Still, the classic 12-valve holds a special place in the hearts of many enthusiasts—and it’s not just nostalgia. Ask around at any local truck meet and you’ll hear the same refrain: “The 12-valve has less computer stuff to deal with.” For a lot of folks, the simplicity and mechanical reliability of the 12-valve is a major draw. There’s something satisfying about wrenching on a motor where tuning is done with a wrench and a screwdriver, not a laptop. That mechanical straightforwardness often means fewer things to go wrong and a greater sense of control, especially for those who prefer to handle their own modifications. While electronic engines offer convenience and refinement, the 12-valve’s mechanical injection system remains a favorite among those who value hands-on performance and old-school reliability. And while the common-rails are grabbing headlines with ever-increasing horsepower numbers, the 12-valve still has plenty of tricks up its sleeve—especially for those who like to keep things analog.” Total 3 Shares Share 0 Tweet 0 Pin it 3 Share 0
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