I need an honest opinion concerning how reliable the stand-alone computers for transmissions are? I have a 1998 Dodge with a 12-valve Cummins, and I am considering a Ford Torque-Shift 5R110W installation. Could you please advise me where I might locate a TCM and vendor? Or is it even worth doing? Your answer would be greatly appreciated.
John Kalvee
Via e-mail
Aftermarket standalone transmission control modules (TCM) have been available for more than a decade. I installed GM 4L80-E & TCM kit in a non-electronic diesel truck in the late ’90s. It performed well, and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend using one of the kits mentioned here for any of the listed Ford/Dodge/GM electronically controlled automatic transmissions. Complete kit prices range from about $800 to more than $1,000.
As noted below, the newness of the Ford 5R110W means the various aftermarket TCM manufacturers haven’t quite caught up yet, but they are close. The following manufacturers are listed here to provide a reference now and in the future. Perhaps a little prodding might encourage them to move ahead on the 5R110.
The Powertrain Control Solutions (www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com) offers a programmable TCM and related kit components designed for a variety of popular Ford, Dodge & GM electronic transmissions. PCS currently supports the following transmissions.
Chrysler: 42LE, 45RFE, 545RFE, 47RE (47RE supported by ATS Diesel) GM: 4T80-E, 4T60-E, 4T65-E, 4L80-E, 4L85-E, 4L60-E, 4L65-E, 4L70-E Ford: AODE, E4OD, 4R70, 4R70W, 4R100, 5R55 (5R110W currently in development)
Compushift (www.compushift.com) also offers a TCM. Their system, as well as others mentioned here, is equipped with a standard level programming that can be custom-tuned using a laptop to exactly match a particular application. This can be important to produce a transmission that accommodates the shift-points required for a diesel engine. Kits can be ordered with the necessary harnesses, OE-style electrical connectors and throttle position sensor. According to Compushift, their transmission controllers are available for both gasoline and diesel installations.
Another manufacturer for multi-brand controllers that comes up occasionally is Baumann Electronic Controls www.becontrols.com.
For GM specific TCMs, www.gmperformanceparts.com offers OE quality standalone controllers and kits for their 4L60-E/4L65-E/4L80-E automatic transmissions. Incidentally, there are a variety of small manufacturers currently offering 5.9L Cummins to Ford transmission adapters. One of the first to offer a bellhousing adapter plate was www.fordcummins.com.
Seeking More MPG
I own a 2004 Ford F-250 crew cab 6.0 V8 Diesel 4x4 with a 6-speed transmission. I am currently averaging 14 mpg while running completely stock. I’m planning to buy The Edge and Juice combo. I’m also considering the Banks High Air Intake and Dual Monster Exhaust, or the Banks High Air Intake and the MBRP Smoker Stack Kit. I was wondering which of these mods would help, and if you would be kind enough to give me an idea of what would be the best products to go with?
Thomas Handrich II
Via e-mail
More Power AND MPG
I have a 2006 Chevy 3500 6.6L Duramax diesel dually crew cab with long bed. I tow a Double Tree Mobile Suite 5th-wheel trailer (max weight 18,000 lbs). I am interested in modifications that will improve my fuel mileage. My truck currently pulls and stops the trailer with no problem but I only get about 8–9 mph towing and 13–14 mph truck only. I do not want to do anything that would void my warranty.
I am considering installing one of the air input mods and exhaust systems mods. The problem is that there are at least six different manufacturers and I haven’t found any data that compares them. I don’t mind spending the extra money, but I am looking for the best return on my investment. I put a Hypertech tuner on my 2000 Excursion with 7.3L Powerstroke and it made a tremendous difference in mileage, power, torque and everything. But it is my understanding that these things void the vehicle warranty. Can you give me any information to help with my decision?
Randy Hiltpold
Via e-mail
Most aftermarket mods an owner might consider can provide a small bump in fuel economy, but rarely do they provide an economic payback over the short haul. While the argument for buying aftermarket products that promise an increase in fuel economy makes it easier to convince the little woman, the biggest payback for an aftermarket modification usually includes a power increase, or an improvement in the appearance or function of the truck.
If you’re concerned at all about losing your powertrain warranty, stay away from products that increase the fuel-rate, change the injection timing, affect emissions, or increase boost pressure. Generally, the installation of an air intake and or an exhaust system won’t affect your warranty — unless you have a 2007 or newer diesel particulate filter (DPF) equipped diesel. The new diesels are tuned to work with the factory-installed air intake and exhaust systems. Aftermarket manufacturers are beginning to offer products that don’t affect emissions and/or the newest truck warranties, so you’ll have to ask before bolting it on — if you’re worried about your truck’s warranty.
As was mentioned in your letter, Hypertech is one of the leading manufacturers that advertise a fuel economy increase with the use of their programmers for either GM for Ford diesels. Bully Dog and TS Performance have each earned a reputation for increasing fuel economy in the Dodge trucks. It’s been my experience that a modest power increase can improve towing fuel economy by up to 10 percent. I mostly attribute this to the fact that the truck can remain in overdrive more of the time. A 10 percent improvement in fuel economy equals a savings of about 30-35 cents a gallon.
For those who put fuel economy at the top of the list in importance, I recommend doing the easy and cheap things first.
1- Track every gallon of fuel that goes into your truck’s fuel tank. Tracking fuel economy over several thousand miles and throughout the year will give you valuable information that can be used to identify trends or evaluate products. Many truck owners only have a general idea what their truck’s fuel economy really is.
2- Do the easy and less expensive mods first. Run your front tires at their maximum rated pressure, as listed on the sidewall. Adjust the air pressure in the rear tires to match the tire squat produced by the front (an empty truck will have a weight bias toward the front). This usually results in 10-20 psi less air pressure in the rear tires when running unloaded, and an air pressure nearly equal to the front when loaded. Rolling resistance is a big factor in fuel economy. Soft tires rob fuel economy.
3- Slow down and drive near your engine’s specified torque peak RPM. 1800-2000 rpm usually work well for diesel pickups, and will be the sweet spot for fuel economy. Drive like the “low fuel” warning lamp is lit, and you still have another 50 miles of Interstate to drive before the next fuel stop. I’ve only seen the low fuel warning light once in my truck, and it made a big difference in how I drove.
Diesel World has been genuinely engaged in the area of diesel fuel economy improvements, and has produced a range of in-depth articles on this topic. If you don’t already have them, you might want to obtain the June & July 2007 and the May 2008 issues. Visit www.dieselworldmag.com to order any back issues.
ULSD Fuel Treatments
There seems to be lots of discussion about adding either motor oil or transmission oil to fuel to make up for lubricants taken out of fuel as a result of reducing the sulfur content. Do you have any opinions on this trend?
Terry Cowart
Via e-mail
The May 2007 issue of Diesel World magazine contains a comprehensive article that covers the subject of treating diesel fuel, with regard to Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel fuel. When that article was written, the new ULSD had been available for just a few months, and lots of diesel owners were worried about its effect on their fuel-injection systems. Now, a year later, we’re just not seeing any widespread reports of injection system failures due to a lack of lubricity.
Diesel fuel lubricity is specified in ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) D-975 & D-6079. To meet the fuel lubricity requirement, diesel fuel producers add a lubricity additive to the fuel at some point in the distribution network. Whatever they’re doing, it appears to be working.
From a both an economic and emissions standpoint, it makes more sense to use a commercially available diesel fuel additive than either motor oil or ATF. Most commercial additives include a cetane improver among the many ingredients, which can improve fuel economy enough to fully offset the cost of treatment. Neither motor oil nor ATF will likely benefit fuel economy, and they can each cost more per treatment than a commercial additive. Our advice is to stick with a commercial diesel fuel additive.
Killer Dowels and 53 Cracks
I just bought a 2002 Dodge 3500, 4x4 extended-cab Cummins diesel dually, with the 5-speed manual tranny. The truck runs great and gets decent fuel mileage. I plan to use it to pull my 36-foot Montana 5th-wheel RV.
My first question is, did Dodge address the “killer dowel pin” issue on the Cummins engines? If so, what year engines would have this fix? I know there is a kit out there offered for about $49–$99.
My second question is, did Dodge address the thin walled “53” block issue? If so, what years are affected? What I know about this is that the 53 blocks were cast in Brazil, while the rest were cast in Mexico. The Mexican blocks are stronger, but only 1 out of 8 are the Mexican ones. Thanks.
Paul Pavlos
Via e-mail
Since you own a 2002 Dodge Cummins, you may have dodged a bullet regarding both the “killer dowel pin” and the Brazilian cast “53” block cracking problem. The dowel pin problem affects the 1989-1998 Cummins, while the engines with a block casting date between 1999 and 2001, and include the number “53” cast in 1-inch letters on the driver's side of the block, could become a potential crack victim.
TST Products offers a dowel pin kit for the 1989-1998 12-valve B5.9L Cummins that solves the problem and will prevent a potential catastrophic engine failure. A loose dowel pin can fall into the various timing and injection pump gears, which can cause lots of things to break. On the other hand, an errant dowel pin can sometimes fall harmlessly through the maze of gears and wind up in the oil pan. This kit is currently listed at $52, and takes about four hours to install. To learn more about this problem or to buy the kit, visit: http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=64
As you suspected, the affected Cummins block castings were cast in both Brazil and Mexico. Based on what I’ve read, the Brazilian blocks were produced with somewhat thinner exterior water jackets, which can result in a thermal expansion crack. These appear as a horizontal crack some inches in length below the soft plugs on the passenger side of the block. You may want to check the casting date on your engine to determine when it was cast. Some late 2001 castings could appear as part of a 2002 model-year engine.
The following web link includes a complete description and photos of the affected area on the block where the crack appears: http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm
Incidentally, LOCK-N-STITCH (www.locknstitch.com) produces a kit designed to “stitch” the crack. This might be a solution for those on a tight budget. It’s been suggested that the crack doesn’t affect the mechanical integrity of the engine. It just produces a coolant leak.
Duramax Conversion — Full-Size 1994 Chevy Blazer
I’ve read about your Duramax conversion in the 1989 Chevy K1500. Great project! I have two questions:
1- I know you installed a modified 2002 Dodge Cummins intercooler, but would you make another choice if you had to do it again?
2- Will the various Duramax sending units and computer function correctly with 1994 GM diesel instrument panel gauges?
I spoke with Troy Brown of Howell EFI harnesses (www.Howell-EFi.com) today regarding reworking my ’06 van Duramax harness and ECM computer to facilitate a transplant into my 1994 Chevy Blazer. I have the dash gauges and steering column from the 2006 donor, and in the initial conversation discussed leaving that part of the harness alone. I requested to have the wires to the gauges and column separated and labeled to allow either splicing into the existing Blazer harness or transplanted into the Blazer. Any info or advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Tod Henrichsen
Via e-mail
If doing another full-width intercooler for the ’90s GM trucks, I would buy a used 1998-2002 Dodge Cummins IC and fabricate new end tanks using 1/8-inch aluminum sheet that were form-fitted to the radiator core support. This would allow more clearance for the park light assemblies. If doing it again, I would be inclined to buy a TIG welder so I could do it all in my own shop. The money saved by not hiring a fabricator would nearly pay for a decent TIG.
I don't know whether any of your existing instrument panel gauges would be compatible with the various Duramax senders. I wouldn’t expect so. The Duramax ECM outputs a serial data stream for some of the gauges — like the fuel gauge and possibly others. So, you'd have to wire those without going through the Duramax ECM, using senders that were used by your original engine.
One of the features I like about my installation is that the GM factory service manuals can be used to maintain the electrical systems. With the exception of the HVAC, the electrical system is the same as a 2001 model year truck. Any GM mechanic could work on it. All of the electrical junction blocks, fuse blocks, harnesses and ground locations are all in the same location and provide the same functionality as that of a 2001 model-year truck. In addition, nearly all of the cool features available with the newer system remain functional, like security, audio, Driver Information Center (DIC), automatic headlight function, 4WD system, tachometer and all other dash gauges. Using the complete steering column matching the model-year of your engine package will make the install a lot easier, because it will greatly simplify electrical hookup, it includes the correct cable-shift for the transmission, and it’ll allow maintaining the Passlock II security system.
By the way, for those not familiar with the Duramax 6600 van engines, GM chose to use its updated 4L80-E automatic in the new vans, instead of the Allison. The engine was detuned to 250-hp and 440 lb-ft of torque, which is the input torque limit of the 4L80-E. The van Duramax without the Allison makes a Duramax conversion doable for a much wider range of vehicles, especially for those that don’t need or can’t use the mega power the Duramax is capable of.
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